Why the forests, the hills and quiet villages of Northern Lombardy make one of the loveliest weekend trips from Milan
Part of the appeal of weekend trips from Milan is that life in this city tends to be very fast-paced.
There comes a point, usually sometime around Thursday afternoon, when many Milanese people begin fantasising about extremely ambitious things. Like silence. Or trees. Or perhaps a weekend where nobody insists that you “simply must” try the latest opening in Porta Venezia, book the new tasting menu in Brera, or attend some rooftop launch event that somehow involves standing for three hours while holding a small fried object on a slate tray.
And fortunately, one of the nicest countryside escapes from Milan is also surprisingly close.
The idyllic charm of Northern Lombardy
Just over an hour from the city, the hills and forests around Varese feel like stepping into a completely different rhythm of life. The traffic disappears. Roads become smaller, quieter and surrounded by chestnut trees, beeches, firs, mossy oaks and birches typical of the Prealpi Varesine. And suddenly, the entire collective Milanese obsession with productivity begins to feel slightly unnecessary.
This is probably one of the best weekend trips from Milan for people who do not necessarily want an aggressively scheduled “escape,” but simply want to slow down for a moment.
The atmosphere here is wonderfully simple in the best possible way: little forest roads, old houses with fireplaces, long quiet breakfasts, wooden furniture, little restaurants and the sort of silence that initially feels almost unnatural when you are used to Milan.
And somehow, in places like this, even extremely basic food becomes strangely memorable. A plate of pasta with tomatoes and basil. A piece of warm cake in the afternoon. A glass of red wine beside a fireplace while absolutely nothing productive happens for several hours.
Perhaps because nobody is rushing. Which, for a Milanese person, already feels fairly exotic.
The secret ingredients of perfection
What makes the countryside near Varese perfect for a weekend away from Milan is that it does not feel performative or overly curated. It is not trying to become “the next Tuscany.” There are no strategically placed pampas grass installations or aggressively aesthetic farm shops selling olive oil with minimalist labels designed primarily for Instagram.
People simply live here.
And after a few intense weeks in Milan, that normality becomes surprisingly luxurious.
You spend time walking through forests, having long lunches, reading more than three pages of a book without checking your phone, and briefly remembering that human beings are technically not designed to answer emails while eating salad at their desks.
Honestly, this may be one of the most relaxing short trips near Milan precisely because it is so uncomplicated.
No pressure to optimise the weekend.
No frantic sightseeing schedule.
Just nature, quiet, good food, and the deeply radical idea of relaxing properly for once.
Where to go: small villages worth discovering in the countryside near Varese
Part of the charm of this area is that many of its loveliest places are not particularly famous at all. Tiny villages like Rasa di Varese, surrounded by forests at the foot of Campo dei Fiori, feel wonderfully suspended in time. Castello Cabiaglio has the kind of peaceful, slightly artistic atmosphere that makes people briefly fantasise about abandoning city life and opening a small bookshop. Brinzio, with its old barns, cobbled streets and traditional courtyard houses, still retains the atmosphere of a northern Lombardy village quietly untouched by modern urgency. Bedero is all silence, woods and old stone houses, while nearby Cuvio, with its quiet streets and slightly faded atmosphere, feels beautifully understated and deeply local.
Where to stay and eat
If you are not lucky enough to be invited to spend the weekend at some impossibly charming country house belonging to friends, here are a few places genuinely worth knowing.
Il Balcone sulla Valle — cosy countryside stays surrounded by forests
Hidden among the hills of Bedero Valcuvia, Il Balcone sulla Valle is exactly the kind of peaceful countryside agriturismo people secretly hope to discover when escaping Milan for the weekend. There are simple, cosy rooms overlooking the valley, a wonderfully quiet atmosphere and a restaurant focused on traditional local cooking and farm products. The entire place feels deeply connected to the surrounding landscape in a very unforced way — more authentic countryside retreat than polished luxury destination.
Where:
Via Camparoncino 7
Bedero Val Cuvia
Tel +39 0332 724603
www.ilbalconesullavalle.it
B&B Palazzo Ronchelli — historic charm and poetic atmosphere
Palazzo Ronchelli, in the tiny village of Castello Cabiaglio, feels less like an ordinary B&B and more like staying inside a quietly forgotten piece of Lombardy history. Originally built as a fortified residence and later transformed into a hunting lodge, the palazzo still retains its historic atmosphere, with elegant porticoes, internal courtyards and beautiful views over the surrounding hills. It is the sort of place that makes a countryside weekend feel wonderful, even if it rains.
Where:
Via Mazzini 10
Castello Cabiaglio
Tel +39 339 1523797
info@palazzoronchelli.it
Ristorante Al Barisun — traditional local cooking and friendly setting
The atmosphere here is warm and very friendly, with generous portions, classic northern Lombardy dishes and the sort of long, relaxed lunches that somehow stretch pleasantly into the afternoon. Nothing feels designed for social media, which is precisely part of the charm.
Where:
Largo Cappia 6
Cuvio
Tel +39 0332 624150
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This post was all about one of the best weekend trips from Milan — and why the forests and villages of the countryside near Varese feel so wonderfully far away from the city, despite being remarkably close.