Spring in Milan: the best walks, cafés and seasonal pleasures to experience the city
By mid-April, spring in Milan is no longer something you anticipate — it is already fully present. The change is visible not only in small details, but in the way the city opens up again: lighter clothes, longer evenings, and a growing inclination to spend time outdoors.
With the arrival of spring, the rhythm of daily life in Milan subtly shifts. After work, many Milanese organise an aperitivo — preferably along the Navigli canals, in the elegant streets of Brera, or near the so-called Colonne. This is the Milanese shorthand for the Colonne di San Lorenzo, a historic set of Roman columns in the Porta Ticinese district that has long been a favourite gathering place.
Milan in spring remembers that outdoor tables exist.
People sit outside, order small snacks and the inevitable drink. The more fashion-conscious Milanese women often opt for fruit-based non-alcoholic cocktails — partly out of preference, partly out of a discreet awareness that bikini season is never very far away.
If you would like to experience this Milanese ritual yourself, two excellent places to try are:
- Pasticceria Cucchi — Corso Genova 1, Milan
A historic Milanese café, Cucchi is known for its excellent pasticcini and its surprisingly satisfying paninetti with prosciutto and cheese. The outdoor tables are not set against the most cinematic backdrop in the city, but its central location and longstanding reputation more than compensate. It is one of those places where atmosphere comes as much from history as from the view. - God Save the Food — Piazza del Carmine 1, Milan
Particularly appreciated for its covered outdoor seating area, this café offers a varied menu ranging from light dishes to cocktails and fresh juices. Prices are, quite unmistakably, Milanese — and perhaps even Brera-level Milanese. But the view over the beautiful Church of Carmine and the slightly bohemian atmosphere of the neighbourhood make it worth the indulgence.
Both offer outdoor seating and a perfect vantage point for watching the city ease into its evening rhythm.
Exploring Milan by Bicycle
Spring also makes it much more appealing to move around the city by bicycle. Milan has gradually expanded its network of cycle lanes, and many residents now use bikes to move quickly between neighbourhoods.
The city’s bike-sharing system is well developed and relatively easy to use. There are around 18,000 bicycles available across Milan, including a large number of electric bikes. Visitors can choose between two systems:
- BikeMi, the station-based service operating since 2008, with over 300 docking points across the city. It includes both traditional and electric bikes (some equipped with child seats), and is designed with an environmentally conscious charging system, using battery replacement and renewable energy sources.
- A free-floating bike-sharing system, introduced more recently, which allows users to pick up and park bicycles in designated areas throughout the city, using dedicated apps.
Cycling through Milan in spring offers a pleasant way to observe everyday life — elegant streets, quiet courtyards and the occasional burst of blossoms appearing above the pavements.
Milan in Bloom
Milan is sometimes described as one of Italy’s least green cities. A Milanese person, when confronted with this observation, might reply, slightly defensively: “Perhaps — but we are the capital of fashion and design.”
And yet, when spring arrives, Milan proves surprisingly capable in the botanical department.
Even the city’s famously composed façades soften a little under magnolia season. Residential streets suddenly reveal flowering trees, balconies fill with plants, and hidden courtyards begin to show signs of life again.
In a city famous for fashion, spring turns out to be surprisingly competent at flowers.
One of the most charming starting points for a spring walk is the Orto Botanico di Brera, a quiet botanical garden tucked behind the historic Palazzo di Brera complex. The entrance is located at Via Brera 28 and can be reached through the main courtyard of the palace.
From there, a pleasant walk leads toward the Giardini Indro Montanelli, one of Milan’s most historic public parks. The most elegant entrance is on Corso Venezia, where the park opens onto wide paths, lawns and some beautiful flowering trees.
This route has an additional advantage: it passes close to the famous Quadrilatero della Moda, Milan’s legendary fashion district. But that is another story — and one that deserves its own blog post.
Navigli in the Spring
Spring is also the perfect time to walk along the Navigli, especially in the late afternoon when the light begins to soften and the canals reflect the surrounding buildings.
Along Ripa di Porta Ticinese, countless bars line the water, offering aperitivo, drinks and light meals. These places are particularly popular with foreign visitors, and it is not uncommon to be approached with a cheerful “Sir, do you want aperitivo?” (in English) — a phrase that has become almost part of the local soundtrack.
Prices here tend to be slightly higher, especially for tables overlooking the canal, but the view remains undeniably appealing.
For a more active experience, the Navigli also offer the possibility of exploring the water directly. The historic Società Canottieri Milano, founded in 1890, organises canoe and kayak courses suitable for both beginners and more experienced participants. Guided by qualified instructors, these courses allow you to navigate the Naviglio Grande at water level — a unique perspective on the city — while combining physical activity with a genuinely enjoyable outdoor experience.
Spring on the Milanese Table
Spring also changes our habits at the table. In pastry shop windows across the city, strawberry tarts and fruit pastries begin to replace the richer cakes of winter.
Seasonal vegetables — especially asparagus — also make their appearance in many Milanese kitchens.
And yes, before attempting any ambitious recipe, there is often a quick phone call to one’s mother. Milan may have a cosmopolitan and fashionable soul, but it is still in Italy — and in Italy, mothers remain an institution.
Here is a simple dish that has accompanied many of my spring dinners. Perhaps it will accompany yours as well.
Asparagus, Bacon and Spiced Skewers
Wash a bunch of asparagus thoroughly, ideally choosing spears of similar size (unlike what I did in the photos — although the result was still excellent). Remove the woody ends and cut the asparagus into pieces of about 3 cm.
Cut a few slices of smoked bacon into three parts. In a bowl, mix sweet paprika and cumin, then coat each piece of bacon with the spices.
Wrap each piece of bacon around an asparagus segment and secure it with a toothpick. Lightly oil a pan with olive oil and cook the skewers over medium heat, turning them so they brown evenly on both sides.
Cooking time will vary between 5 and 10 minutes, depending on your preference — shorter if you enjoy asparagus with a slightly crisp texture.
A final spring note…
Last but not least, spring is also the season when florists display their most beautiful bouquets. If you happen to be in the Navigli/Ticinese area, Clori is well worth a visit — a small reminder that, even in a city of stone and structure, there is always room for flowers.
Clori Fiori Milano, Via Santa Croce 21, Milan
This post was all about spring in Milan — and the many ways in which the city reveals itself when the season is in full bloom.