You want to try real Milanese food but you’re tired of tourist traps? Here are 7 places that locals swear by.
If you want to enjoy authentic Milanese food in a more familiar and informal setting than traditional restaurants, you need to discover the best trattorias and osterias in Milan.
But first things first. What’s a trattoria and what’s an osteria, and how are they different from typical restaurants?
In order to understand this, we need to take a step back. Actually, quite a few steps back.
The “birth” of osterias dates back to Medieval Italy (12th-15th centuries). Osterias used to be stops along trade routes that offered wine and very simple food; they provided social spaces and, in some cases, accommodation for the night.
The first trattorias were opened later on, during the Renaissance period. Unlike osterias where wine was central, food was the reason why people went to trattorias. In fact, they offered large portions of food at affordable prices, and were often run by women who cooked seasonal family recipes for their guests.
In the 19th century, with the advent of Industrialisation, there was a large migration of people from the countryside to Milan, with a significant growth of the working class. In this context, Milanese trattoria became like a second home for the workers where they could find a domestic atmosphere and nutritious meals at very low prices. In the meantime, osterias shifted their focus from wine to food.
After some decades of decline in the popularity of trattorias and osterias ‒ mainly due to the opening of numerous pizzerias and fast food restaurants ‒ they experienced a huge revival starting from the 1990s, mainly as a reaction to globalised dining with related nostalgia for traditional cuisine and authenticity.
How can you distinguish authentic Milanese trattorias and osterias from tourist traps?
Here’s what to pay attention to.
Tourist trap red flags:
- Prime tourist locations only (this doesn’t mean that there aren’t any real trattorias in these districts, but they’re less common).
- “Real Milanese food”, or something similar, written outside in English.
- Huge number of different dishes on the menu.
- Menu focussing on dishes like: spaghetti bolognese, pizza, Alfredo sauce. Biggest red flag of them all!
Real trattorias have rather short menus, sometimes even handwritten; they usually serve wine by the carafe, and serve dishes you very rarely see abroad. Milanese classics are: risotto alla milanese, ossobuco, cotoletta alla milanese, mondeghili, cassoeula (keep reading and you’ll find out what they are).
Bear in mind that these are very general rules, and don’t necessarily apply to all the “real” trattorias and osterias.
How do typical restaurants differ from trattorias?
While the main implicit message conveyed by trattorias and osterias is: “We won’t surprise you with a fancy atmosphere, but we’ll feed you properly”, restaurants have a more formal, elegant and international vibe, a longer menu with more dishes and a wide selection of wines. And prices are usually higher.
If you want to fully enjoy the trattoria experience, here’s how to order like a local.
Typically, order either a first or a second course (either “primo” or “secondo”). We order both only when it’s a special occasion or if we’re particularly hungry. Bear in mind that second courses don’t automatically come with side dishes (“contorno”): if you want a side dish, order it separately. As for wine, wine snobbery and sophisticated labels are usually not a thing in authentic trattorias: the best choice tends to be “vino della casa” (which means “house wine”, a locally-sourced, unbranded, affordable red or white wine served in a carafe or jug, that is usually a good-value choice).
What is the typical Milanese food you can enjoy in trattorias and osterias?
Cassoeula
This is a stew belonging to Lombardy’s rustic cooking tradition. Mainly made with the less “noble” parts of pork and with cabbage, it’s very tasty and perfect for the winter season.
Mondeghili
Just like cassoeula, this is another dish from Milan’s “cucina povera” (peasant cuisine). Mondeghili are pan-fried meatballs made with meat leftovers, usually beef or veal, bread soaked in milk, grated Grana Padano cheese (the Lombardy version of Parmigiano Reggiano), eggs, butter and parsley.
Ossobuco
This is another example of how humble meat cuts are turned into refined and rich dishes. Ossobuco ingredients are: a cross-cut veal shank that’s braised until the meat is tender and is then served with the marrow still inside the bone, which is what makes ossobuco taste so delicious.
Risotto alla Milanese
This (together with cotoletta alla milanese) can be considered a signature dish of Milan. It’s a saffron-scented risotto that has a rich, luminous gold colour and whose texture must be “all’onda” ‒ flowing and soft.
Cotoletta alla Milanese
This is a veal cutlet (with bone attached in the “costoletta alla Milanese” version), breaded with eggs and breadcrumb and then fried in clarified butter.
And, finally, here’s a selection of 7 really authentic trattorias and osterias in Milan.
In the City centre:
Trattoria La Colonna
Opened in 1922, this lovely trattoria in the city centre has preserved its old charme.
Where:
Via Santa Maria alla Porta 10, Milan
Tel +39 02 8363 8830
www.trattorialacolonna.com
In the Porta Romana district:
Trattoria Masuelli S.Marco
A typically informal trattoria in the Porta Romana area, famous for its old-school stews and risotto alla milanese.
Where:
Viale Umbria 80, Milan
Tel +39 370 134 1450
www.masuellitrattoria.com
Osteria dell’Acquabella
Simple dishes but high quality ingredients in this old-school osteria close to the Porta Romana district.
Where:
Via San Rocco 11, Milan
Tel +39 02 5830 9653
www.acquabella.it
In the Navigli district:
Osteria Conchetta
Located in the charming Navigli district, this is the ideal place to try authentic mondeghili and ossobuco (and other Milanese specialties).
Where:
Via Conchetta 8, Milan
Tel +39 02 837 2917
www.osteriaconchetta.it
El Barbapedana
Another lovely trattoria in the Navigli area, where you can taste traditional Milanese food immersed in a warm old-Milan atmosphere.
Where:
Corso Cristoforo Colombo 7, Milan
Tel +39 832 1732
www.elbarbapedana.it
Not close to the city centre, but easy to reach:
Antica Osteria Il Ronchettino
This is a very charming trattoria, established in a 19th century farmhouse with a hidden garden, which has remained practically unchanged over time.
Here, you can try authentic Milanese dishes in a very cosy atmosphere.
Quite far from the city centre, but worth it because of its special rustic charme.
Where:
Via Lelio Basso 9, Milan
Tel +39 342 564 3955
www.ronchettino.it
Ristorante Al Garghet
Unlike the other trattorias and osterias I mentioned, this is a restaurant. It offers excellent Milanese dishes in an enchanting, fairy-tale atmosphere. It is located in the south of the city, twenty minutes from the city centre.
For more information about Al Garghet, click here.
Where:
Via Selvanesco 36, Milan
Tel + 39 02 534698
www.algarghet.it
In the photos: Osteria dell’Acquabella
Photos of Milanese dishes: from Ristorante Al Garghet
This post was all about the most interesting trattorias and osterias in Milan, where you can enjoy the best Milanese food at a reasonable price.